Monday, April 6, 2015

Thailand: Roses and Garbage in the Khaosan jungle

Khaosan Friday- Sept. 2
11 sip et
12 sip song...
20 yee sip
30 saam sip  
100 loi

  1. woke up… got email back from Martha that i could stay longer!
  2. yogurt and fruit
  3. changed my plane ticket
  4. switched hostel… slightly cheaper but sketchy and right next to khaosan. 
  5. not as good an idea as previously thought
  6. was gonna hop a boat to skytrain? ran into efrain instead
  7. Indian food. omnom
  8. visited golden tower wat. visited some other wats too.  wandered and looked for all the wats.
  9. cha yuen and ice cream!
  10. walked in park… foot massage
  11. mcdonalds/ rape convo/ split
  12. token american thoughts
  13. went home… came back out for pad thai/sticky rice
  14. loud room… rough sleep
    khaosan jungle
bell, stop, breathe, smile


Bangkok recap

Bangkok was so exciting to me at first with all the lights and buildings and riverboats.  My first night there I went to the biggest couchsurfing event I’ve ever been to.  There are so many travelers that there are even subcultures within the backpacker scene. 

But there's something really strange and sad about it too.  I learned what a "ping pong show" was (google it if you don't know, just don't do it at work).  And there's a heavy sex/drugs culture, no doubt.  But I don't see that as Thai culture-- it's a mix of rich tourists who can pay to come see/do perverse things, and a beautiful forgiving land that's been exploited to not ask for more.  


“Because the good family’s way of life is the way it is, the prostitute has to live as a prostitute.  no one among us has clean hands.  no one of us can claim that it is nort our responsibility… the wealth of one society is made up of the poverty of the other. "

Excerpt on "Roses and Garbage", noble girls and prostitutes-- from Peace is Every Step by Thich Nhat Hahn

I should make a point that I never went out alone at night, and I never felt unsafe in the presence of other Thai people.  Even the tiny old men soliciting ping pong shows and the ladyboys offering a good time could look me in the eye with compassion and offer directions if I was lost.  


The only time I felt unsafe was in the presence of another American.  We had talked about going to another town and splitting a hotel.  As the conversation went on, he talked about how the last time he shared a hotel with a girl she got mad when he tried to put the moves on her, and he justified it by saying she was asking for it by inviting him to stay with her.  I defended the girl, and in a roundabout way backed out of making any travel plans with him.  Then he went off on how American girls are always too worried about getting raped.

That statement hit me like a ton of bricks, and I knew it was true (not in the way he meant it--to say that we're uptight and need to loosen up), but I especially knew in that moment what it means to be an American woman, where we have a legal system that prosecutes rapists.  And why I'm often perceived as naive when I visit other countries.  I rarely worry about rape when I'm in the states, but suddenly I realized there's a whole 'nother "asking for it" clause that this American abroad seemed to adhere to.  I appreciated his candor, but I also knew I didn't want to be around him anymore. 


Aside from all that, I also found myself getting way too comfortable.  In Bangkok, I learned/used numbers and bartering phrases, but unfortunately that’s about it.  When I realized that I hadn’t been carrying my language pad with me, and that I had few interactions with Thai people that weren’t centered on commerce, I decided it was time to take a breather from Bangkok.

Thailand: From Homeless-in-Hawaii to Ballin'-in-Bangkok

Wednesday 8/31/11

how much? nee tow rai
can i have a little discount? lot noi dai mai

  1. booked a fancy ass 5 star hotel in bangkok!! 
  2. big ordeal finding my hotel—3 taxis later
  3. found it… yes i want that free wine! naptime!
  4. lil jog
  5. discovered what a ping pong show is :/
  6. met with csers—crepes and som tam
  7. biggest couchsurfing meetup ever-- hundreds in the street
  8. went dancing
  9. 711 taro bun and pork bun
I've paid more for campsites in Hawaii than I paid for this 5 star

early in the night at a Couchsurfing party
attacked by the swedes!! :)
    the riverbus I'd take to and from the hotel

Bang-a-rang-kok Thursday 9/1/11

  1. neung
  2. song
  3. sam
  4. see
  5. haa
  6.  hok
  7. jet
  8. pet
  9. gow
  10. sip
  1. MASSIVE BUFFET, cybernet,  jog, sauna, pool. soaked up the fanciness.
  2. river tix to khaosan
  3. holy crap!  backpackers heaven. 
  4. cool pants. guidebooks.  australian guys.
  5. rain forced to stay at sawasdee for 600 baht :(
  6. met another solo traveler, were gonna meet at wat buttt the rain.
  7. tried to book ticket to kan and koh tao with clement…  but 3 days!? 
  8. i have commitment issues.  or maybe i'm still coming out of a breakup. or maybe i'm just alone and scared in thailand?
  9. ended up wandering around getting buckets, shopping, and eating crickets and sticky mango rice
  10. my funny french friend clement-- bucket = baguette
    part of my massive breakfast
soaking up the fanciness
ate it
He said bucket, but I heard baguette and thought "oh! you are so French!"

Thailand: A day in the life of Michelle

Phang Nga Tuesday 8/30

Toilet… WHERE!?- horng nam tinai
sorry- hart hot
i don’t understandmai kow jai
thai iced teacha yuen
  1. lunch with michelle- som tam—was going to get a ticket to james bond
  2. bought socks/ ice cream… then more ice cream!
  3. long walk to park
  4. watched monkeys with locals
  5. rice milk at market
  6. michelle’s students interviewing me
  7. dinner at pizza place with michelle/seth/sudjit? crepe on the way to bus stop
  8. ticket to Bangkok
  9. middle of night binge on pocky and rice snacks
following Michelle to school
Breakfast!
in her classroom

Monkey bidness
The next day we had a fun time trying to order some really good som tum… we just let them surprise us and ended up with little mini crabs in it.


And it was so good! While she was at school, I found myself returning to the park.  It was a long walk there, so when I got there I just picked a spot that was semi shaded to just sit.
walk in the park

monsoon-ish
There were other families there, and I suddenly felt awkward.  This stinky sweaty farang… female… and alone! In a public park! Anyway, this turned into a highlight as the awkwardness and guardedness between parties subsided.  Watching the monkeys play nearby, it became like a theater where we all watched the monkeys with anticipation, and laughed together at key moments.  The baby trying to sneak past the momma, who would then grab it by the tail and yank it right back.  That’s  a universal  comedy, I guess.


Thailand: Overseas slumber party 2011!

Tonight I've been trying to dust off my old gopro/upload some of the movies but I couldn't figure out how.  So I searched my computer with "gopro" to see if I could find the manual or software I thought I saved on here, and found this old stream-of-consciousness word document gem that I forgot that I had kept from when I was in Thailand.

It's awkwardly written, but kind of fun.  I started writing this as though it were for my eyes only, but I've tried to go in and fill in the gaps so I can share bits and it'll all make sense.  I become less and less diligent about posting towards the end, but maybe I'll fill those gaps in later.

______________________________

Sunday night arrival in Phuket: August 28, 2011

Hello Sawatdee kha
How are you? kuhn sabai dee mai?
finesabai dee
My name is Mandy Rau Cheu Mandy
I am from Texas Rao maaa jahhk Texas

One of my favorite things about traveling is being able to immerse myself in a different language.  I am pleasantly surprised to find out how little English is spoken here in Thailand.  I've memorized these stock phrases, and every morning I want to write down 3-5 phrases or words that I think will be useful for that day-- and for anything else I need I can just act it out.  So far, it’s been a non-stop game of charades . 

5 star treatment!

Just checked in
  1. rainy
  2. cushy hotel
  3. used a showertoilet

Phuket 8/29/11

thank you- korp kuhn khaaa
does this bus go to phang nga?- rot may kun nee bai Phang Nga mai?
  1. breakfast buffet/Australian woman
  2. tired… why am i at another beach! was going to phuket but ended up getting ticket to phang nga
  3. just as i arrived saw students getting out… went to office and found teacher who contacted michelle
  4. took me on motorbike to park/Monday Market/ night market- got pad thai and cha yuen
  5. donuts from Market, pandan filling pancakes, shitty Chinese sweets, peanuts, etc

On my first morning, I caught the first bus I could to Phang Nga.  I learned that charades should not be relied on to cross language barriers.  On the bus ride to Phang Nga, I learned that no matter what, you must always know how to ask where the bathroom is in any given country's language.  

I also learned here that toilets outside of fancy hotels are all holes in the ground, and they don't have toilet paper, just basins filled with water and a cup.  You do the math.

I was going to visit my friend Michelle who had been teaching english there. She had sent me a facebook message saying there was a bus stop right in front of her school, and without a phone I figured those were good enough directions.  I got there just in time to see hundreds of Thai kids getting out of various schools.  Somehow I stumbled across the right one, and the “disciplinary chair” called Michelle to put us in contact.  Lucky!  (or maybe because I was the other token white girl)

Michelle at her school
Within a few hours of being with her, she took me to various markets, introduced me to pandan leaf custard, showed me monkeys and a beautiful park, taught me how to say Toilet… where!? and how to properly order “thai iced tea”.

Monday night market
We cruised around town on her motorbike, and the town cop tried several times to stop her and tease her flirtatiously about the time he gave her a ticket for not wearing her helmet.  And Michelle just laughs and goes along with it, even though I’m pretty sure neither of us could understand what he was trying to say, only that he wanted her attention that much longer.   And even with all that we did in the first night, we still had time to catch up on where we’re at in our lives. 

We talked about boys, and about music. Michelle showed me this Best Coast music video (that would later narrate many relationships to follow):


As I'm trying to piece these memories together, I just remember feeling like a teenager at a slumber party.  I had been so intensely trying to learn Thai/memorizing my guidebook, but being with her put me at ease.  With my head and shoulders on a Strawberry Shortcake blanket, and the other half of me feeling the coolness of the tile floor, I stared at the ceiling listening to Best Coast and dreamed about boys.

Saturday, December 13, 2014

toenails

Today, I am sulking around my bedroom in the house where I grew up.  Yesterday, I was collecting flight information so I could get away, but then I went to a holiday party and then took a nap and well, you can imagine how the story goes from there.  This year especially, I've been trying really hard to "be here now".  When I'm traveling, it's never hard for me to be present.  Everything is new, and my entire body senses that.  Conversely, it feels like an infinite challenge to stay present when living in my hometown.

I've been really fortunate to travel a lot this year

Big Bend/Marfa/Terlingua


Playa del Carmen/Cozumel Mexico

Easter in San Diego

Mothers Day in Houston with my Grandma 

Independence Day in Maui


New Years Day in Austin, TX


Asheville, NC to see Diana/Ra/Zeus

Great Smokey Mtns, TN 

Atlanta, GA to see my brother get hitched

Omaha, NE because why not?

Ozarks for the Yonder Mountain String Fest

O'ahu to visit old friends

Sayulita/ San Pancho, Mexico

And most recently, Santiago, Chile

I started writing this post to make myself feel better about staying at home this weekend, but instead, after enumerating the places I've been, it kind of feels like I've just clipped my toenails and now I'm holding on to them to show everyone else just what I've done.  Yes, this is part of me, but they're in the past now and something feels kind of gross (yet gratifying) about putting it on display (for the record, I always throw away my toenails, but we all know THERE ARE PEOPLE IN THIS WORLD who clip their toenails intentionally in a place that is not the trashcan in order to look at their pile of glory afterwards).

I'm going to go for a walk, and when I get back I hope to finish this thought...