I'm alive!

Talofa lava! I have been in Western (Independent) Samoa for about a week now in a village called Alafua where our campus (USP) is located. They just opened the campus "computer lab" (think jr. high-- waiting in line to use one of 5 computers, two of which have had the mouse stolen, and they run at ridiculously low speeds).

I have pictures to post but...
1) the computers are VERY slow... so I'm going to try to post this entry first and then try for some pictures.
2) Almost anywhere I go I have to ask permission (preferably of a Matai/chief) to take pictures. This makes sense though, as I'm sure a lot of palagi* come through taking pictures of people going about their day. Especially cause theres so many things here that you just wouldn't believe if it weren't for the pictures!

I have so much I could write about, but I'm a bit limited (due to slow computer and the fact that I've got a lot of work to do for tomorrow). So I'll do what I can. And I apologize if it's not structured in a very reader-friendly fashion. While my Samoan tongue is really improving, I'm getting worse with English:)

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It's hot. The showers are cold. I shower with centipedes. I have decided that sleeping with lizards is better than sleeping with centipedes.

The busses here are an unreal experience. They are brightly painted and loud music is always blaring. And I cannot describe how crowded they are. When all the seats are taken, people begin to pile in each others' laps. I've even had someone sit in my lap already. Someone handed their BABY to my friend. Unreal.

I ran into a guy that went to Trinity on the first day at the market!!!

I'm sleeping in a closed room (not an open fale). I am still at USP, though. Friday I will go stay with a family in Lotofaga (on the south side of Upolu). But because the Matai's son-in-law is a builder, they have a new house... most likely a closed house that is typically only associated with Palagi*, but we'll see.

I have been snorkeling with some of the most colorful fish I've ever seen, hiking to the top of volcanic mountains, swimming in caves, diving off waterfalls, and sliding down moss covered rocks. Did I mention I LOVE SAMOA?

Our academic director from SIT told us that if we followed the health guidelines from SIT, that we'd all starve and die. That should give you an idea about my diet.

My clothes smell worse after having washed them.

I may or may not elaborate on these things later, depending on what you guys are interested in. I haven't written anyone individually (yet), but I just wanted to tell everyone how much it means to me to receive emails, comments, and those kinds of things from you. This has been a bit of an emotional roller-coaster for me and hearing from people close to my home helps me remember who I am and where I come from.

Peace, love, and le fa'asamoa,
Mandy

*Palagi (puh-LONG-ee) is the Samoan word for white person.

Vegan Polygamist Valentines

292, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

So we have one boy on our trip, and he's just amazing. Our director told him that it's tradition that the males of the group make dinner one night, and so he actually took her up on it. And we cooked the taro we harvested at the Lo'i and mashed poi as well! It was absolutely delicious. Technically, I had a dude cook me dinner on Valentines Day (for once!) .

Okay, this is just cute.

291, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

This is my friend Allie and while she was holding the gecko, it jumped on her nose. But I wasn't able to get my camera out until it reached her hair. Either way, it perched itself on her hair for a while. Don't act like this isn't cute.

Me as a farmer at the Lo'i

289, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

Working at the Lo'i has been, by far, one of the coolest experiences since I've been here. Throughout the week, we've been learning about Hawaiian sovereignty movements and their efforts to return to a more traditional society where property is communal as well as is work (thus breaking dependence on the US/capitalism) Hawaiian Lo'i are basically farms that any local Hawaiian who knows "the protocol" can come and work, as well as reap the harvest without having to use any monetary exchange.

On this day, I weeded the swampy Lo'i while dodging centipedes and crayfish (?) and mosquitos (oh my!) and then harvested Taro root (as seen in the picture). It was a really cool process to learn, and communal farming seems like such a cool concept that I would love to activate in my hometown.

Drop-offs and my journey to the State Capitol

287, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

SIT does these things called drop-offs, and during our hectic orientation week in O'ahu, this was a breath of fresh air. We really have been in the classroom almost all day every day. So on my drop-off, I walked back to the location (rather than taking the bus, even though it took me over 3 hours).

First, I went to this planetarium show at the museum that talked about how the polynesians first navigated through the pacific using only the stars. That was so cool, and if I had more time I'd like to write more on that.

Next, I went to Chinatown and attempted (very poorly) to converse in Chinese. Side note: I've made a friend here named Allie that is fluent in Chinese and we have been practicing together.

Then I went to the state capitol, where this picture is taken. Their house and senate floors are on the ground floor, and visible from people passing in the streets. I thought that was SO cool... given that it makes participation/observations much more accessible. Too bad nothing was going on... but it seems cool in theory.

Then I came across a workers' strike against a convenience store. I talked with them for a little bit about some of the issues facing local workers and again, I just wish I had more time to blog about this.

Finally, I met back up with the group at the International Marketplace. The end.

Starbuck, Stubb, and Flask

P2100348, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

This is the day I went out with my friend on their boat to go snorkeling. I was the only snorkeler because I'm not "scuba-fied" (scuba certified), but that was okay. And I can hold my breath really well, anyway. They are all scuba instructors so I got some free lessons, and will take that knowledge with me to Samoa:)

The boys that don't speak any other language than Surfer-nese

P2090334, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

From L to R, Gary was from the Caribbean and spoke very little English, but he was able to converse very well about surfing and could always point out every surfing break on TV or in pictures. Middle is Kevin who was from La Jolla in San Diego, CA. If it weren't for him, I might have been lost in the surfer lingo. He was able to relate surf breaks in La Jolla to what they were talking about on the north shore so that I wasn't totally lost. He was a funny guy, and was always on the phone with/ talking about how much he missed his girlfriend. Then the last guy is Nathaniel from Australia. He was typically quiet. I had two other room-mates not pictured-- one named Robbie from Australia (easy on the eyes) and another whose name I still cannot pronounce from Japan.

These guys woke up at 6 every morning to go surf, and when they got home they would do nothing but watch surfing videos. But hey, we were on the North Shore.

The family that plays together stays together

P2090307, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

I was wandering around looking for breakfast on the North Shore and I heard music coming from a shop and thought "WOW those are great speakers!" So I wandered in, and it was Ron and his family recording a new album. On the far left was the bassist, then the short guy was wandering around (but I'm sure he plays something) then Ron (or Papa, as he told me to call him) was on the Keyboard and was singing. the next shorter guy was on the timpani and bongos, then on lead guitar was the next guy, then the two girls were on keyboard as well, and while they were recording his wife talked to me about what they do. It was a saturday morning and they were all so happy to be playing together. They'd look over and smile at each other, and at the end they'd talk to each other saying "oh man I really liked what you did with that riff there" and complimenting each other. I saw on their logo "A family that plays together stays together". Talking to them, and especially Vicky (Ron's wife) about what they do made me really emotional. I wish I had the time to put into words exactly how they made me feel, but I will leave it at that. I left their house feeling totally inspired and optimistic about the world.

Kailua Beach

P2070152, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

Even on a cloudy day, Hawaii is beautiful. I went swimming here and there was a point where I really didn't think I would ever voluntarily come back to shore.

Mister Eko's Church

P2060089, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

For those LOST junkies...

Waimea Sunset

P2070185, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

LOST

MORE LOST, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

So I made a friend that took me to the "secret" lost beach where they have all their huts located and the set is roped off. After wandering around the outside for a while, the security guards offered to let me on the set to take pictures. :D:D:D

Cattle at Kualoa Ranch

P2080224, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

It's "Lord of the Flies" time, Piggy

P2080264, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

After wandering around Kualoa Ranch, they let me feed Wilbur:)

A necessary thank-you note

, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

Breakfast at the hostel in Waikiki

Breakfast at the hostel in Waikiki, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

This hostel wasn't too bad... the people were more around my age. Here I befriended people more around my age from all around the world-- Brazil, Ireland, Guam, Toulouse, England, Australia, etc. But as friendly as everyone was, I just didn't make any strong connections like I did up on the North Shore.

Isabelle on our porch from the backpacker's hostel

isabelle on our porch from the backpacker's hostel, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

As much as I hated sleeping on a soaked bed under a leaky roof... I loved this hostel. And I loved the people that I stayed with. Isabelle is this awesome girl from Ecuador who was a phenomenal surfer. And she's a fellow couch-surfer! My first night at backpacker's, I stayed with her, and older couple from england, and a 45 year old woman who was also a really active surfer. We spent much time on this porch complaining about the weather yet admiring the surf.

I went swimming with the sea turtles on the North Shore:)

yes, i went swimming with the turtles:), originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

The time I went to Kualoa Ranch

P2080209, originally uploaded by mandy.mantzel.

If you knew you would be stranded on a remote island, what ten things would you bring?

I remember playing this game with friends when I was younger... back when the thought of living on an island away from western technology existed only as an abstraction. My list might have looked like this:

1. A lifetime supply of chocolate-covered almonds
2. A Brita water filtering pitcher
3. A GPS system
4. A 4 wheeler
5. A beach chair
6. John Locke from LOST... who would be more useful on an island than this guy?

7. Jack

or Sawyer.

Or both? Either way, on an island, the odds are in my favor.
9. My dog, Kosmo.
10. His clicker and a lot of goldfish crackers (so I could teach him how to fetch food, scare off intruders, build huts, and other practical things, while I'm hanging out with the characters from LOST)



Now, as I'm packing my suitcase, I'm beginning to play this game all over again. Progressively, and especially after learning that my bag can only weigh 44 pounds (the plane that I fly from Hawaii to Pago Pago will be so small that they will even seat us according to our weight), my ideas of living on a remote island are changing as they become more real. Therefore, after re-evaluating life on an island, I have revised the top 10 things that I think I will need to survive in the South Pacific.

Here is a more realistic list:

1. Gifts to make peace with the locals, as well as gifts for my Aiga. If I'm taking only the bare minimum for survival, then this tops my charts. If I am going to Samoa, and this is their island, I had better get on their good side.

Last semester, one of the students from SIT got beat up really badly by some Samoans. According to another girl from the trip, he was out late at night by himself and they asked him for money, and he refused and... well, things escalated, I suppose. However, everything I have read says that Samoa has a very communal culture, and I am expecting that it is not uncommon for a Samoan to even ask another Samoan for their money, shoes, food, etc. So, while I am listing this as number one, I really mean that anything I bring will be something that I will be fully prepared to share (but don't worry Mom and Dad, I will travel the village with small amounts of money and keep everything else out of visibility).

I've always claimed to be something of a socialist. Let's see if I'll be able to put it into practice... (yes, I understand it's different on an island).

2. Bug repellent with 100% DEET and Sunscreen. Mosquitos, centipedes, and cucarachas gigantes-- oh my! And did I mention I'll be sleeping in a fale? See below.



3. Snorkeling gear!! :D :D

4. Three long dresses. One of which is white, for Church. As I've already mentioned, they are very traditional, modest, and Christian.

5. Sunscreen. I'm already an excellent candidate for skin cancer as it is.

6. Tevas. 'Cause my un-calloused feet ain't ready for the reef and Tevas look way cooler than aqua-socks.

7. Waterbottle and iodine tablets. In case my pool boy calls in sick and I can't have him bring me purified water. I'm kidding. People, I'm not going to a resort here!

8. Soap/Shampoo. For those cold showers (when I'm lucky).

9. Some paper journals. I've gotten addicting to writing in a paper journal. But whenever I do have access to a computer, I will be sure to update this blog and copy some of my favorite entries.

10. A digital camera. To post pictures and videos to the internet (when I get the chance) for your enjoyment!

Additional accessories I am taking:
A flashlight w/ batteries. For those late-night trips to the "bathroom"...
Multi-vitamins. Taro fruit and coconut all day every day does not seem like a healthy diet.
An umbrella. It's going to rain. A lot.

"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes, and not rather a new wearer of clothes."
-Thoreau

Misperceptions

Misperception #1: I will be surfing on the beaches every day after class!
Reality: Apparently, surfing is great in Samoa, but the reefs make it super-dangerous. I've only surfed in California, where there was no reef (but there were rocks!). Either way, everything I've read says that surfing is only for the elite.

Misperception #2: I will get a great tan!
Reality: I will get a great farmer's tan. Due to Christianity and other conservative influences, women, even in HOT South Pacific temperatures, are expected (required?) to cover their shoulders and wear skirts past the knee. If I wanna go swimming, I'll just have to go with my tshirt and lavalava.

Misperception #3: I will go on walks of epic proportion all by myself!
Reality: "Wandering" won't be much of an option. Property is communal, and therefore I'll have to ask the matai (patriarch/mayor) of each aiga (extended family/village) before I do anything in their territory. Which is probably okay, because I also didn't realize how small the islands are.

So it seems that a recurring theme is that I thought I was going to get to go be independent/free/wild girl in nature (think Xena, or a female Rambo minus all the killing). But I'm faced with harsh realities that this might not happen.

An actual letter written to a good friend

"You're studying in Samoa!? wtf x 120"

Back when I thought I'd be studying abroad in China, I never encountered such confusion from my family and friends about my decision to do so. I don't think I would have needed to say a reason for studying in China. It would probably be obvious that it's a pertinent country to most focuses in the academia, and above all, it would probably lead to financial stability through multiple opportunities in the business world.

But now, I'm not going to China. My forms were late and I didn't get into the program (SIT has rolling admissions and they filled up too fast). I'm pretty sure I received my letter of rejection during some capstone crisis, so I just signed on the website to look at what else was open... and without even thoroughly looking through any of them I just told the lady to switch my application to the Pacific Islands program. BUT my curiosity led me to the pacific islands program before other countries for these reasons-

1. My high school/hometown has a huge Tongan/Samoan population (they're actually probably the nicest people I've ever met! just don't piss em off... they're big mofos) and it's been getting a lot of coverage for some of the traditions they've brought with immigration.


2. At the time I still thought I wanted to apply to a pacific relations graduate program (UCSD). But since then, I've kind of been leaning more towards graduate programs for political theory... we will see if this trip pushes me one way or another.

3. While this may not obviously be useful in political science, I'm interested in the gender dynamics in Samoa specifically. In some families, if there are not enough girls, a boy will dress and live with a feminine identity to help out with domestic duties. I stumbled across this article (after I signed up for the program) and it kind of sparked some questions in my mind. Specifically, if you just read the section called "The Ocean", I think it's interesting how she plays around with associating the idea of land to the masculine-- as a solid form worth exploring and discovering.... while linking water (deep and fluid) to the feminine and to Samoa-- remote and unexplored. The fact that the Pacific Islands are seen as irrelevant to international politics intrigues me. Why aren't the Pacific Islands studied more in the academia?

In short, I'm very curious about the places I'm going to go. But at the moment, I really have no objective for what I want to find. Which is a good place to be in, I guess.

Call Me Ishmael...

I like walking. A lot. If the day is short, I will just go through some familiar scenery, but my favorite kind of walk is the kind where I have to wake up early on a Saturday morning so that I can make it back before the sun sets.

I commonly hear "I saw a girl that looked just like you walking behind discount tires on I-35" Or better yet, "when I was home over the summer in Las Cruces New Mexico, I saw this girl walking down the street with her luggage-- in 107 degree weather-- that looked just like you!" (I will explain that one in another post...)

I'm frequently asked "where are you going?" To which I just shrug. Dissatisfied, they'll ask "well, where are you coming from?" and I'll just say "I'm on a walk." To me, that seems like that would be a sufficient answer.

Why walk? For health? Sure. Because it's more environmentally responsible than driving and saves gasoline money? Absolutely. But there's something else...

When I go on walks, I never really plan out where I'm going to go. I usually just follow my curiosity. I understand the old saying-- "curiosity kills the cat"--but at the same time, I also like to believe that people of this nature have 9 lives. I've got at least 5 of mine left. Okay, maybe 4. The point is, I like to explore new territory. This means I'm constantly forced to re-orient myself. I walk for the thrill of this.

Here are some other people who are talking about walking too, but prettier...

"It is a surprising and memorable, as well as valuable experience, to be lost in the woods at any time [...] In our most trivial walks, we are constantly, though unconsciously, steering like pilots by certain well-known beacons and headlands, and if we go beyond our usual course we still carry in our minds the bearing of some neighboring cape; and not till we are completely lost, or turned round-- for [s]he needs only to be turned round once with eyes shut in this world to be lost-- do we appreciate the vastness and strangeness of Nature. Every person has to learn the points of compass again as often as [s]he awakes, whether from sleep or any abstraction. Not till we are lost, in other words, not till we have lost the world, do we begin to find ourselves, and realize where we are and the infinite extent of our relations"
-Henry David Thoreau, Walden
"Call me Ishmael. Some years ago... having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me on shore, I thought I would sail about a little and see the watery part of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen, and regulating the circulation. Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp, drizzly November in my soul; whenever I find myself involuntarily pausing before coffin warehouses, and bringing up the rear of every funeral I meet; and especially whenever my hypos get such an upper hand of me, that it requires a strong moral principle to prevent me from deliberately stepping into the street, and methodically knocking people's hats off - then, I account it high time to get to sea as soon as I can. This is my substitute for pistol and ball. With a philosophical flourish Cato throws himself upon his sword; I quietly take to the ship. There is nothing surprising in this. If they but knew it, almost all [wo]men in their degree, some time or other, cherish very nearly the same feelings towards the ocean with me. [...] Stand a person on their legs, set their feet a-going, and they will infallibly lead you to water[...] Yes, as every one knows, meditation and water are wedded for ever."
-Herman Melville, Moby Dick
So, here is an introduction to my studies in the South Pacific.